There are some amazing flavors like honey, almond praline and royal milk tea. Then there are the odd, more daring flavors like cheese, black pepper, lemon salt and… basil?! My personal favorites are jasmine and lavender. Some of the chocolates, like honey flavor, are very light in taste, the honey flavor itself very subtle, but it’s there. Each chocolate has a number, lavender is #49, Ecuador & Milk is #31. They sell gift boxes as well which are nicely designed, and one of the special gift boxes is a set of 365 chocolates, each with the individual day of the year printed on it.

The cafe itself is not very big, the seats are counter style stools. The drink menu includes the usual coffee and tea, and specialties like “Fromage Chocolat” and “Chocolat Drink.” Drinks range from 300 yen to 450 yen. Their food menu is far more unique than their drink menu. Anyone care for a “Wafflate”? or maybe a “Chocornet”? Each chocolate dish is rendered with a unique chocolate paste filling or chocolate icecream topping. My favorite was the “Morning Basket”, a sort of combination set including a croissant and slice of bread, three little cups of chocolate spreads, and a hot coffee(or tea, your choice), for 580 yen. I haven’t tried it yet, but there is also a “Fresh Chocolate” menu including such flavors as apricot chocolate, kirsch white, and pistachio.

100% Chocolate Cafe is a 5-10 minute walk from Tokyo Station on the JR Line. Here is a direct link to their map(Japanese):
http://www.meiji.co.jp/sweets/choco-cafe/shop/guide/map.html
Just follow the map from Tokyo Station(the white box along the dotted lines) to the little blue box indicating their location.

100% Chocolate Cafe
Tel: 03-3273-3184
Weekdays: 8AM - 8PM
Saturday, Sunday, and holidays: 11AM - 7PM
Smoking: Non-smoking
URL: http://www.meiji.co.jp/sweets/choco-cafe/shop/index.html

It’s easy to find too, just walk up Spain Zakka over by La Fabrique in Shibuya, it’s just before the stairs that lead up to the crepe shop. Their flavors may sound odd at first, don’t forget, we’re still in Tokyo, try them and you’ll be amazed at how good they are. There are a few types, my favorite being the kind with the chewy outer skin and the fluffy insides, which may not be the best way to describe them, but they aren’t far from New York style. Here’s the rundown, potato, pumpkin, adzuki bean and oats, mixed berry(awesome.), kinako, pistachio and beet, spinach and almond, and many more flavors. My wife and I have nearly tried them all, and they are all fantastic. Mixed berry is very chewy and nice, with real berries inside, and adzuki bean and oats is tasty and filling.

Their awesome beet and pistachio bagel. Amazing.

The only missing element is the cream cheese. It’s usually stocked in grocery stores around Tokyo, you just won’t find it at Bio Cafe. These guys leave Bagel Bagel in the dust. Even the treatment of the bagels is authentic. Layered in a basket sitting by the window, not stuck in individual plastic sealed bags with expiration dates on them(Bagel Bagel,… grrrr…). Just for the record, I have tried dinner there and it’s not bad at all. First go for a bagel though, it’s worth the trip. Bagels are 230 yen each.

Bio Cafe’s Website

Bio Cafe Map

It’s as though someone in heaven knew my desired meal budget and my desired tastes, and granted my wish. You’ll be hard pressed to find a meal that won’t leave you feeling stuffed to the brim for over 600 yen. That includes a soup, Chinese pickles and the main dish(depending on what you order). My first dish was pork fried rice, an otherwise simple dish in name yet tasting of overwhelming complexity. I’m sure these chefs make this dish like an afterthought, but you’ll never find fried rice like this at any Tokyo Chinese restaurant. Scattered inside are little bits of Chinese broccoli, shredded pork, egg, and other minced vegetables. It’s served in bucket portions with a small soup and little dish of Chinese pickles, the kind drizzled in chili oil. Health risks aside, if the concept of calories didn’t exist, this would be my daily lunch.

This evening I had the eggplant and Chinese miso sauce. I had a sinking feeling that I might have ordered the wrong thing, that I would be served typical Japanese mabo-nasu, which is the eggplant version of their standard mabo-tofu. How wrong I was. Cue Chinese kung-fu flute music, cue shouting chefs, along comes a big plate piled high with chopped roasted eggplant, skins seared, meat thick and sweet, roasted minced garlic and ground meat thoroughly cooked in Chinese miso sauce. It tasted like every kung fu fighter in the world beat the hell out of these eggplants, then exploded them with flavor power and landed them on my plate in an atomic explosion of aroma and richness. Nothing could express my feeling after eating this. How I’ve waited so long for food like this, food NOT squeezed out of a bottle or thrown in a pan from a can. Could I but speak more than a few words of Chinese, I would gratefully thank these people for maintaining a restaurant like this in a sea of boring standards(there are six “hambagu” restaurants around my office, how… original).

I know this isn’t meant for the locals, no matter when I go, the majority of customers are Chinese. This is a dead giveaway that the menu isn’t going to change any time soon. Having tried this place three times, I feel like it can do no wrong. Even my wife, a very choosey eater, deeply enjoyed her meal of stewed vegetables and Chinese meatballs wrapped in delicate tofu skins. I’m not sure yet if they offer vegetarian options, but I can easily imagine my eggplant dish this evening having the same impact with or without the minced meat. In fact, there were several dishes on the menu which could potentially be vegan, so I will have to take one of my vegan friends there to find out.

This is not an easy restaurant to find if you’re not already familiar with Shibuya. If you can make it to the McDonalds in the central shopping area then you’re close. You need to walk down the street between this McDonalds and the kebab restaurant(there’s a sashimi ricebowl restaurant just after the kebab place). Keep walking straight, and just past the big ramen shop on the right, take a right and you’ll see it. It’s in the middle of that alley. Busted sign out front, steamy windows, menu splayed out in front. Once inside there are menus at the tables. The menus have photos, for the most part, but there are items which cannot be ordered with reading the kanji. Some of these items are very tempting so it’s recommended to bring a friend who can read kanji if you want to go beyond their house specials(which will knock your socks off, mind you).

Shanghai Shokudo Fukuan

Tokyo’s current trend of taking fast food chains and cafes and rebranding them into high-end luxury versions of their former selves has taken a horrible turn this day. While brands such as Mr. Donut get it right with “and on and,” McDonalds has pulled a fast one with their new “QUARTER POUNDER” brand fast food chain. Their website is sleek, simple, two colors with big photos. Their packaging also sleek, no-obvious-brand stylish. From outside it looks like McDonalds is offering a high end lunch alternative in a luxurious environment. Leather chairs, leather tabletops, jet black walls, minimal design.

Minimal. The menu consists of only two items. Quarter pounder, or double quarter pounder. Make your selection, then select from ONLY three drinks. Coca Cola, Coca Cola Zero and hot coffee. That’s it, those are the only two choices you will make. As well, those are the only two customizable elements in the entire restaurant. There are no ketchup or mustard packets. As Burger King would say, “have it your way,” McDonalds has taken it in the reverse and removed all choice, including the smiles from the staff. That’s right, McDonalds Japan is famous for smiling staff. Not QUARTER POUNDER. No one smiled, not even once. It was more of a demanding experience, the staff pointed at the menu and repeatedly asked for our selection.

It was exciting, the buildup of walking through the sliding doors, sitting in the posh leather chairs. The meal itself, It’s just a quarter pounder. That’s right, JUST a quarter pounder, and no lettuce! While every other chain in Japan is listening to it’s customer base, McDonalds has decided to trick them instead and serve the same crap, repackaged in a high-end disguise. Even the French fries were regular, oily McDonalds fries. Nothing different, nothing special, and no choice!

In my friend’s own two-word review, “shit sandwich.”

If McDonalds is your thing, go for it. Be warned though, there’s nothing to try, it’s JUST a quarter pounder with fries and a three item drink menu.

Enter “And On And”, in quotes to prevent from looking like a typo. In my opinion, this donut chain is the BEST balance of quality, price, and creativity. With only three locations, Jimbocho, Shibuya and Shiodome, it may be tricky for some to access, but for those within range, it’s well worth the trip. Trip aside, if you can even find them, that may be a challenge. The Shibuya location in particular is fairly hidden, on the road between Shibuya and Harajuku, just up the hill from “3 Minuntes Happiness”. And On And features two tiers of donuts, premium and classic. A 250 yen($2.20~USD) premium donut awards you fancier ingredients such as blueberry cheese, black soybean brown sugar, or maple almond. Downgrade to classic for only 180 yen($1.70~USD) and enjoy equally unique flavors like lemon tea, caramel almond or cassis orange. The donuts are a fairly standard size, comparable to Krispy Kreme, but slightly more substantial and far more satisfying in flavor. Apple cinnamon donuts are baked with little bits of real apple inside and blueberry cheese donuts are sprinkled with dry blueberries.


See above for their ongoing donut menu which I shamelessly scanned from their handout brochure(forgive me, And On And)

Go all out and drop 400 yen($3.80~USD) on their ultimate donut experience, a donut affogato, temptingly named, “Patisserie Donut.” You get a maple syrup filled donut covered in whip cream and crushed nuts with a shot of espresso on the side. Pour the espresso over the top and dig in to possibly the best, and likely only, high-end donut experience. If you’re done with donuts and want something else, their muffins and cream puffs are just as good as their donuts.

While the rest of America is purging donuts from their diets, donuts are making their debut in a big way in Tokyo, Japan. With chains competing for supremacy, it’s hard to believe this new, and generally quiet, donut shop hasn’t been picked up on the radar yet by sweets aficionados. What’s even more surprising is the one player that’s even more secret in these donut wars. Just who is And On And? A donut chain doesn’t just pop out of nowhere with such a good menu and fancy interior design. Possibly the only way anyone would ever find this secret is by reading the fine print on the back of their shop brochure. While Krispy Kreme and Donut Plant duke it out, Mr. Donut has done their homework, in spades, and produced a real winner. For those who know Mr. Donut, the chain donut shop that was, until recent years, the only establishment that specialized in donuts, the connection between parent company and “And On And” is almost invisible. Mention Mr. Donut to any Japanese person and they cringe at the thought of stale coffee. Times are changing though and And On And’s coffee is fantastic(and better and cheaper than Starbucks). They deserve a standing ovation though. While other Japanese chains try to reinvent themselves to keep up with incoming new Western chains, Mr. Donut got it right in all categories and exceeded my expectations. Worth the time and calories in my opinion.

and on and
URL: http://www.andonand.jp/index.html

Access: http://www.andonand.jp/access/index.html
(The access page is in Japanese, but the first map on the list is Shibuya, the second is Jimbocho, and the third is Shiodome. The stations are clearly marked and the path from station to shop is marked in orange)

For anyone visiting Tokyo or living in Tokyo, you’ve surely had at least one experience riding the legendary Tokyo taxi cab. For most, the experience can be nothing short of a financial disaster if the driver is left to his own devices. A short drive from downtown to your apartment or hotel might run you 3,000 yen or more! The most typical tricks to expect:

- In most cases, the driver has no idea where ANY major landmarks are and refuses to drive without first wasting metered time playing with the in-car GPS. The driver will insist he is new to Tokyo and knows nothing about the city.

- The driver slows down but does not stop when asked to stop, just to get the meter to tick up once more. Even worse, the driver leaves the meter on while you rummage through your wallet to get the money to pay him/her!

- The driver knows where to go, but drives at half the speed limit, only to insist he/she is “safe driving” for you

There is a way around it though, and a way to save precious money when in need of a ride and not an investment. I repeated this trick for months until I could determine right phrase with the highest success rate. It’s almost too obvious, but the system is so efficient in Tokyo that you would never bother even trying it.

Hail the taxi and wait for them to open the door to let you in(Tokyo taxi cabs open the left side door for you, never open it yourself or you will anger the driver). Lean in but don’t sit down or get in. If you sit down, they will close the door and you could be stuck with them. While leaning in, ask them in Japanese, “Can you go from here to (your destination) for (the amount of yen you realistically think it will take to get you there)?” Be clear with the destination name and the amount you want to offer. I also tried, “How much will it cost to drive from here to (your destination)?” several times but received only mixed results. In each attempt, when offering the amount, if/when the driver agrees, he is seemingly bound to that verbal agreement. In one instance, my driver actually didn’t bother turning on his meter, he simply took the money first then started driving, and drove fast! For the other occasions, the driver waited until the meter hit the rate I offered, then stopped the meter and kept driving. It might be an honor thing, but who cares. I’m so tired of these taxis stealing my money for terrible service. I’ve read many stories of London cab drivers who have to memorize the street maps before receiving a taxi license, so why can’t Tokyo offer first class service like this? Probably the same reason the Narita airport was built 2 hours away from Tokyo, to capitalize on expensive bus and train rides to and from the city.

Just a side note, I’ve never had a driver get upset at me for asking. It might confuse them a little at first, so repeat your request slowly and politely with a smile if they don’t get it the first time. Part of it’s success will be based on your behavior as well. Jumping in the cab and shouting the price won’t work. If you get good at this, you’ll never fear getting cheated by a Tokyo taxi again.

When I first arrived in Tokyo, besides Shimo Kitazawa and Kichijoji, I really wasn’t sure where to buy local art by young and upcoming Japanese artists. Sure there are small shops scattered throughout Tokyo, but Design Festa is really the spot. In past years I’ve picked up some wicked hand printed tshirts, posters, print art and hand-made lights for my apartment. A lot of the exhibitors are art students trying their hand at selling their work for their first time, and a lot of it is brilliantly creative and beautiful. It’s a real treat to spend a weekend browsing the show. Even for non-artists, there’s no way you’ll leave without feeling inspired to join the next event.

The performance art is another great spectacle. When entering the event area, there’s a runway at the front where new fashion designers exhibit their latest styles. Exotic, modern takes on kimonos and fusion styles abound. In between many exhibitors you’ll find some wild performances by Japanese “Noh” dancers, experimental DJ’s, light and sound artists, it’s nearly endless. I recommend starting early, I still have trouble finishing the entire showroom in a single day. You might even run into someone famous, like the Tokidoki guy or any number popular Japanese rockers performing on the outdoor stage. If you’re hungry, there’s a cafeteria in the middle area where you can try all kinds of great international foods. Last year had Korean, Chinese, African curry, Okinawan and many others. Plenty of beer and wine as well from the various bar stands.

Design Festa runs about twice a year, usually May and December. In my opinion, it is easily one of the reasons you should visit Japan(unless you already live here). For artists and creators, this is a great place to get started. Not only fine arts, but also unique fields like stop motion animation, character designs, and action figures to name a few are on display. It’s one MASSIVE art free-for-all. Highly recommended.

Design Festa
When: May 26th (Sat) & 27 (Sun) 2007*
Hours: 11AM - 7PM
Location: Tokyo International Exhibition Center “TOKYO BIG SIGHT”
West Hall 1, 2, 3, 4, Atrium & Outdoor
URL: http://www.designfesta.com
Map: coming soon! Check back in the next few days…

*Check website occasionally for upcoming events and dates. Date listed above is for next event in relation to this article.

For those not already familiar with Japanese deserts, beans consist a major part of the structure of a typical “sundae,” as Americans might call it. The main desert dish is called, “Anmitsu,” which includes little white jelly cubes(seaweed derived, but don’t let that put you off!), mixed fruits, boiled, hard peas, and lastly a sweet, deep redish purple azuki paste(a.k.a. “anko”). If you’re lucky, they might toss on a little piece of pineapple or a maraschino cherry! Azuki are a popular red bean grown throughout Asia for various purposes. In Japan they are boiled and sweetened, then turned into a paste with varying degrees of texture. Sometimes they are boiled even further and turned into a sweet soup. Funabashiya Koyomo introduces you to just about every function of azuki, with the exception of “Taiyaki,” the fish shaped azuki filled deserts often found at holiday events.

I enjoyed the “special anmitsu with kuzumochi,” (620 yen) a square dish filled with the little jelly cubes, small beans, sliced chestnut, fresh strawberries, sliced chewy rice cake(kuzumochi are long rectangular slices of mochi, while shiratama are small white balls of mochi), and topped with vanilla icecream and a scoop of azuki paste. This was perfectly complimented by a cup of their hot green tea. I really enjoy the variety in Japanese deserts, with interesting flavor combinations like azuki beans and strawberries, and chestnut and vanilla icecream. The presentation is always a treat with each dish presented as a little work of art. The green tea and black bean cake(680 yen) was also delightful with it’s rich, sweet black bean topping.

Worth a visit if you’re looking for a truly authentic Japanese desert experience. If you want to go the distance, dinner (880~ yen) and lunch (680~ yen) are also served and their dinner sets are quite nice and priced somewhat reasonably.

Funabashiya Koyomo
By Train: Hibiya Line, Hiroo Station exit 2
Directions: From exit 2 walk right out of the exit and around the corner you’ll find the shopping street. Walk to the very end, you’ll see it on your left, with Homework’s burger restaurant just across the street. There are two floors, the top floor is the dining area.
Hours: 11:00AM - 10PM (L.O. 9PM)
Holidays 11:00AM - 6PM(L.O.5PM)
Payment: VISA, MASTER, UC, DC, JCB accepted
Phone: 03-5449-2784
URL: http://www.funabashiya.co.jp/
English menu: http://r.gnavi.co.jp/fl/en/a799700/menu.htm

Each isle is laden with imported wines, dry goods, spreads and sweets. I particularly enjoy the candy isle with the wide variety of chocolates and, of course, the only chocolate bar in town filled with marzipan. Along with peanut butter candy, marzipan is one of those deserts that simply never took off in Japan. Seijo Ishii sells the Neideregger Stick Marzipan Classic, a long, thin dark chocolate bar filled with marzipan. The only other way to get it in small doses is to buy the “Ritter Sport” variety pack which includes one little marzipan filled chocolate. Unfortunate for marzipan lovers in Tokyo, but something is better than nothing.

Great beer selection for a late night run, many items you won’t find at your local AM/PM like Hoegaarden and Spaten. Sweet bottles of Belle-Vue fruity brews like Kriek and Framboise are also available to surprise your beer hating girlfriend with something more unique and respectable than your imported Miller Lite. Nice wine selection as well, but don’t bother looking for a deal unless you’re still intoxicated from Air and then it won’t matter anymore. Next to the beer section you’ll find the juices and sodas. Classic American lemonade can be had for a price, along with the usual suspects of flavored soda waters.

Seijo Iishi Daikanyama*
hours: 24 hours a day
station: Daikanyama
URL: http://www.seijoishii.co.jp/
map: will post map within a few days of posting article

*please note, there are many other branches of Seijo Iishi throughout the Tokyo area. The most notable being the Seijo Iishi situated near the JR Ebisu terminal in the Atre building. It’s not necessary to post a map for this location, as it’s hours are limited to the Atre’s business hours, and it’s impossible to miss. When exiting JR Ebisu station, arriving from either direction, take the escalator to the East(Higashi) exit and walk left after passing through the gates. You won’t miss it. The Daikanyama branch beats this one with it’s awesome 24 hour service.