Minimal. The menu consists of only two items. Quarter pounder, or double quarter pounder. Make your selection, then select from ONLY three drinks. Coca Cola, Coca Cola Zero and hot coffee. That’s it, those are the only two choices you will make. As well, those are the only two customizable elements in the entire restaurant. There are no ketchup or mustard packets. As Burger King would say, “have it your way,” McDonalds has taken it in the reverse and removed all choice, including the smiles from the staff. That’s right, McDonalds Japan is famous for smiling staff. Not QUARTER POUNDER. No one smiled, not even once. It was more of a demanding experience, the staff pointed at the menu and repeatedly asked for our selection.

It was exciting, the buildup of walking through the sliding doors, sitting in the posh leather chairs. The meal itself, It’s just a quarter pounder. That’s right, JUST a quarter pounder, and no lettuce! While every other chain in Japan is listening to it’s customer base, McDonalds has decided to trick them instead and serve the same crap, repackaged in a high-end disguise. Even the French fries were regular, oily McDonalds fries. Nothing different, nothing special, and no choice!

In my friend’s own two-word review, “shit sandwich.”

If McDonalds is your thing, go for it. Be warned though, there’s nothing to try, it’s JUST a quarter pounder with fries and a three item drink menu.

Enter “And On And”, in quotes to prevent from looking like a typo. In my opinion, this donut chain is the BEST balance of quality, price, and creativity. With only three locations, Jimbocho, Shibuya and Shiodome, it may be tricky for some to access, but for those within range, it’s well worth the trip. Trip aside, if you can even find them, that may be a challenge. The Shibuya location in particular is fairly hidden, on the road between Shibuya and Harajuku, just up the hill from “3 Minuntes Happiness”. And On And features two tiers of donuts, premium and classic. A 250 yen($2.20~USD) premium donut awards you fancier ingredients such as blueberry cheese, black soybean brown sugar, or maple almond. Downgrade to classic for only 180 yen($1.70~USD) and enjoy equally unique flavors like lemon tea, caramel almond or cassis orange. The donuts are a fairly standard size, comparable to Krispy Kreme, but slightly more substantial and far more satisfying in flavor. Apple cinnamon donuts are baked with little bits of real apple inside and blueberry cheese donuts are sprinkled with dry blueberries.


See above for their ongoing donut menu which I shamelessly scanned from their handout brochure(forgive me, And On And)

Go all out and drop 400 yen($3.80~USD) on their ultimate donut experience, a donut affogato, temptingly named, “Patisserie Donut.” You get a maple syrup filled donut covered in whip cream and crushed nuts with a shot of espresso on the side. Pour the espresso over the top and dig in to possibly the best, and likely only, high-end donut experience. If you’re done with donuts and want something else, their muffins and cream puffs are just as good as their donuts.

While the rest of America is purging donuts from their diets, donuts are making their debut in a big way in Tokyo, Japan. With chains competing for supremacy, it’s hard to believe this new, and generally quiet, donut shop hasn’t been picked up on the radar yet by sweets aficionados. What’s even more surprising is the one player that’s even more secret in these donut wars. Just who is And On And? A donut chain doesn’t just pop out of nowhere with such a good menu and fancy interior design. Possibly the only way anyone would ever find this secret is by reading the fine print on the back of their shop brochure. While Krispy Kreme and Donut Plant duke it out, Mr. Donut has done their homework, in spades, and produced a real winner. For those who know Mr. Donut, the chain donut shop that was, until recent years, the only establishment that specialized in donuts, the connection between parent company and “And On And” is almost invisible. Mention Mr. Donut to any Japanese person and they cringe at the thought of stale coffee. Times are changing though and And On And’s coffee is fantastic(and better and cheaper than Starbucks). They deserve a standing ovation though. While other Japanese chains try to reinvent themselves to keep up with incoming new Western chains, Mr. Donut got it right in all categories and exceeded my expectations. Worth the time and calories in my opinion.

and on and
URL: http://www.andonand.jp/index.html

Access: http://www.andonand.jp/access/index.html
(The access page is in Japanese, but the first map on the list is Shibuya, the second is Jimbocho, and the third is Shiodome. The stations are clearly marked and the path from station to shop is marked in orange)

For anyone visiting Tokyo or living in Tokyo, you’ve surely had at least one experience riding the legendary Tokyo taxi cab. For most, the experience can be nothing short of a financial disaster if the driver is left to his own devices. A short drive from downtown to your apartment or hotel might run you 3,000 yen or more! The most typical tricks to expect:

- In most cases, the driver has no idea where ANY major landmarks are and refuses to drive without first wasting metered time playing with the in-car GPS. The driver will insist he is new to Tokyo and knows nothing about the city.

- The driver slows down but does not stop when asked to stop, just to get the meter to tick up once more. Even worse, the driver leaves the meter on while you rummage through your wallet to get the money to pay him/her!

- The driver knows where to go, but drives at half the speed limit, only to insist he/she is “safe driving” for you

There is a way around it though, and a way to save precious money when in need of a ride and not an investment. I repeated this trick for months until I could determine right phrase with the highest success rate. It’s almost too obvious, but the system is so efficient in Tokyo that you would never bother even trying it.

Hail the taxi and wait for them to open the door to let you in(Tokyo taxi cabs open the left side door for you, never open it yourself or you will anger the driver). Lean in but don’t sit down or get in. If you sit down, they will close the door and you could be stuck with them. While leaning in, ask them in Japanese, “Can you go from here to (your destination) for (the amount of yen you realistically think it will take to get you there)?” Be clear with the destination name and the amount you want to offer. I also tried, “How much will it cost to drive from here to (your destination)?” several times but received only mixed results. In each attempt, when offering the amount, if/when the driver agrees, he is seemingly bound to that verbal agreement. In one instance, my driver actually didn’t bother turning on his meter, he simply took the money first then started driving, and drove fast! For the other occasions, the driver waited until the meter hit the rate I offered, then stopped the meter and kept driving. It might be an honor thing, but who cares. I’m so tired of these taxis stealing my money for terrible service. I’ve read many stories of London cab drivers who have to memorize the street maps before receiving a taxi license, so why can’t Tokyo offer first class service like this? Probably the same reason the Narita airport was built 2 hours away from Tokyo, to capitalize on expensive bus and train rides to and from the city.

Just a side note, I’ve never had a driver get upset at me for asking. It might confuse them a little at first, so repeat your request slowly and politely with a smile if they don’t get it the first time. Part of it’s success will be based on your behavior as well. Jumping in the cab and shouting the price won’t work. If you get good at this, you’ll never fear getting cheated by a Tokyo taxi again.

When I first arrived in Tokyo, besides Shimo Kitazawa and Kichijoji, I really wasn’t sure where to buy local art by young and upcoming Japanese artists. Sure there are small shops scattered throughout Tokyo, but Design Festa is really the spot. In past years I’ve picked up some wicked hand printed tshirts, posters, print art and hand-made lights for my apartment. A lot of the exhibitors are art students trying their hand at selling their work for their first time, and a lot of it is brilliantly creative and beautiful. It’s a real treat to spend a weekend browsing the show. Even for non-artists, there’s no way you’ll leave without feeling inspired to join the next event.

The performance art is another great spectacle. When entering the event area, there’s a runway at the front where new fashion designers exhibit their latest styles. Exotic, modern takes on kimonos and fusion styles abound. In between many exhibitors you’ll find some wild performances by Japanese “Noh” dancers, experimental DJ’s, light and sound artists, it’s nearly endless. I recommend starting early, I still have trouble finishing the entire showroom in a single day. You might even run into someone famous, like the Tokidoki guy or any number popular Japanese rockers performing on the outdoor stage. If you’re hungry, there’s a cafeteria in the middle area where you can try all kinds of great international foods. Last year had Korean, Chinese, African curry, Okinawan and many others. Plenty of beer and wine as well from the various bar stands.

Design Festa runs about twice a year, usually May and December. In my opinion, it is easily one of the reasons you should visit Japan(unless you already live here). For artists and creators, this is a great place to get started. Not only fine arts, but also unique fields like stop motion animation, character designs, and action figures to name a few are on display. It’s one MASSIVE art free-for-all. Highly recommended.

Design Festa
When: May 26th (Sat) & 27 (Sun) 2007*
Hours: 11AM - 7PM
Location: Tokyo International Exhibition Center “TOKYO BIG SIGHT”
West Hall 1, 2, 3, 4, Atrium & Outdoor
URL: http://www.designfesta.com
Map: coming soon! Check back in the next few days…

*Check website occasionally for upcoming events and dates. Date listed above is for next event in relation to this article.

For those not already familiar with Japanese deserts, beans consist a major part of the structure of a typical “sundae,” as Americans might call it. The main desert dish is called, “Anmitsu,” which includes little white jelly cubes(seaweed derived, but don’t let that put you off!), mixed fruits, boiled, hard peas, and lastly a sweet, deep redish purple azuki paste(a.k.a. “anko”). If you’re lucky, they might toss on a little piece of pineapple or a maraschino cherry! Azuki are a popular red bean grown throughout Asia for various purposes. In Japan they are boiled and sweetened, then turned into a paste with varying degrees of texture. Sometimes they are boiled even further and turned into a sweet soup. Funabashiya Koyomo introduces you to just about every function of azuki, with the exception of “Taiyaki,” the fish shaped azuki filled deserts often found at holiday events.

I enjoyed the “special anmitsu with kuzumochi,” (620 yen) a square dish filled with the little jelly cubes, small beans, sliced chestnut, fresh strawberries, sliced chewy rice cake(kuzumochi are long rectangular slices of mochi, while shiratama are small white balls of mochi), and topped with vanilla icecream and a scoop of azuki paste. This was perfectly complimented by a cup of their hot green tea. I really enjoy the variety in Japanese deserts, with interesting flavor combinations like azuki beans and strawberries, and chestnut and vanilla icecream. The presentation is always a treat with each dish presented as a little work of art. The green tea and black bean cake(680 yen) was also delightful with it’s rich, sweet black bean topping.

Worth a visit if you’re looking for a truly authentic Japanese desert experience. If you want to go the distance, dinner (880~ yen) and lunch (680~ yen) are also served and their dinner sets are quite nice and priced somewhat reasonably.

Funabashiya Koyomo
By Train: Hibiya Line, Hiroo Station exit 2
Directions: From exit 2 walk right out of the exit and around the corner you’ll find the shopping street. Walk to the very end, you’ll see it on your left, with Homework’s burger restaurant just across the street. There are two floors, the top floor is the dining area.
Hours: 11:00AM - 10PM (L.O. 9PM)
Holidays 11:00AM - 6PM(L.O.5PM)
Payment: VISA, MASTER, UC, DC, JCB accepted
Phone: 03-5449-2784
URL: http://www.funabashiya.co.jp/
English menu: http://r.gnavi.co.jp/fl/en/a799700/menu.htm

Each isle is laden with imported wines, dry goods, spreads and sweets. I particularly enjoy the candy isle with the wide variety of chocolates and, of course, the only chocolate bar in town filled with marzipan. Along with peanut butter candy, marzipan is one of those deserts that simply never took off in Japan. Seijo Ishii sells the Neideregger Stick Marzipan Classic, a long, thin dark chocolate bar filled with marzipan. The only other way to get it in small doses is to buy the “Ritter Sport” variety pack which includes one little marzipan filled chocolate. Unfortunate for marzipan lovers in Tokyo, but something is better than nothing.

Great beer selection for a late night run, many items you won’t find at your local AM/PM like Hoegaarden and Spaten. Sweet bottles of Belle-Vue fruity brews like Kriek and Framboise are also available to surprise your beer hating girlfriend with something more unique and respectable than your imported Miller Lite. Nice wine selection as well, but don’t bother looking for a deal unless you’re still intoxicated from Air and then it won’t matter anymore. Next to the beer section you’ll find the juices and sodas. Classic American lemonade can be had for a price, along with the usual suspects of flavored soda waters.

Seijo Iishi Daikanyama*
hours: 24 hours a day
station: Daikanyama
URL: http://www.seijoishii.co.jp/
map: will post map within a few days of posting article

*please note, there are many other branches of Seijo Iishi throughout the Tokyo area. The most notable being the Seijo Iishi situated near the JR Ebisu terminal in the Atre building. It’s not necessary to post a map for this location, as it’s hours are limited to the Atre’s business hours, and it’s impossible to miss. When exiting JR Ebisu station, arriving from either direction, take the escalator to the East(Higashi) exit and walk left after passing through the gates. You won’t miss it. The Daikanyama branch beats this one with it’s awesome 24 hour service.

You’ll find such rarities as Hamburger Helper and dry, boxed manicotti pasta. The isle by the entrance is lined with vegetables, then sectioned off for imported foreign frozen pies, bagels, deserts, and real American hotdogs and sausages(good ol’ hooves ‘n ankles! yum!). Around the corner is the Italian isle with usual Prince pasta imports, along with Prego and Classico sauces and a lineup of odd imports. Further down on the right are Thai seasonings and Mexican taco kits, along with chili seasonings and guacamole seasoning packets. Further along the next isle are American breakfast cereals, some Brazillian imported powder mixes for baking and desert sauces. This market is large enough that you may find those rare, odd things that you’ll probably be missing after 3-4 months into your Nova contract. There’s even a supply of Newman’s salad dressing. You’re not going to find that at your local Marusho. Oh, and there’s dry falafel mix and hummus for vegetarians. In fact, I noticed several nice imported vegetarian products including vegi burgers.

The cheese isle though will leave you in awe. Just about every Western cheese brand is represented along with the coveted feta cheese, rarest of rare cheeses in Japan. Go on, tell me where else I can find this besides Seijo Iishi and National, I’d love to know. Unlike the Japanese equivalent, camembert is not the dominant cheese in this cheese isle. Further down at the end of the cheese isle is the imported beer section. Italian, German, American, you’re bound to find something good. Don’t expect any 24 packs of Schlitz or Pabst Blue Ribbon, for shame.

Azabu Super is nothing new, they’ve been around since 1962 and will remain for ages due to the large and growing foreign community. Finding information about the Azabu Super is another thing, it took me ages before I actually got around to finding it(it didn’t help that I lived all the way out in Tama at the time either though…). After visiting, be sure to walk around the corner and go upstairs to the supply store above. English language magazines, newspapers, kids party supplies, and kitchen ware are sold there. Great if you’re having a house/tiny apartment party and need a lot of paper plates, napkins, etc. for guests. Not cheap, but not tiny either, big, proper dinner napkins and giant paper plates are standard. Enjoy!

National Azabu Supermarket
Tel: 03-3442-3181
Hours: 9:00AM - 20:00PM
Train Line: Hibiya

National Den-en Supermarket
(sister store offering more high-end products and Japanese products)
Tel: 03-3721-4161
Hours: 10:00AM - 20:00PM
Train Line: Toyoko

This place rocks.

Score a bus from Shinjuku station, the “Fuji goko” line for 1,700 yen one way(850 yen for kids). Pick up at Shinjuku’s West gate on the first floor of the second building of Yasudaseimei. The ride takes about an hour and a half, don’t forget your DS to kill time.

1)

It’s not as expensive as Disney. You can snag a full day mini trip, [bus +
admission] for about 7000 yen(will post travel details within a few days of this post).

2)

eejanaika!
This is my ideal version of a “refreshment”. Have you ever had stress? This will make you realize that not much of any of the small crap that lingers in your mind on a daily basis really ever mattered; because when this ride has you upside down, hanging, BACKWARDS… having your life on the line and dangling in mid air usually
a) clears your sinuses
b) gives you a “bit” of perspective back into reality

3)

Go to the Gundam 3d show. Why? Because it was closed when I went so I need
someone to drop knowledge of what i missed. Plus the Gundam store in the park
sells some pretty bad-ass old school Gundams that are decently priced. some
range from 800yen to 2100yen. if you compare that to how back in Chinatown in
NYC where I used to reside sells them, then it’s a steal almost.

4)

The hot dog lady.
Yeah I said it, hot dog lady.
She’s just superkind. We pre-cooked my lunch that day (because i’m a celiac,
and everything in japan has ajinomoto in it), but my friend forgot to add salt
to the lunchbox. This lady was kind enough to let us use her ingredients. None
of this makes sense, but i’m just mentioning how kind some people can be.

5)

They have three other huge attractions there I think. We didn’t test out the
fujiyama, because the rain started to peg down on us after a while.

6)

There were a good amount of Hong Kongians there. If your Hong
Kongian-American like me, seeing your own people’s randomly in tokyo is a nice
surprise.

7)

My girlfriend said there’s a haunted mansion here. It’s an actual abandoned
hospital that they’ve decided to maintain with all the original hospital equipment and
facilities. So it’s like resident evil, the TOUR. Well I didnt get a chance to
wander into it, but she told me that she REFUSES to ever go because all her
friends and everyone in japan says the place is actually haunted with some
actual, authentic, japanese ghosts. Well, go visit and someone let us know if
an oni follows you back home.

FUJI Q Highland
URL: Fuji Q Highland
Phone: 0555-23-2111

What is THE most comprehensive “otaku” experience in Tokyo? No doubt countless numbers of addicts have considered this and contemplated the optimal trip, but what could honestly be the peak experience? With so many options scattered throughout the city, it’s a real task to draw up a gameplan. The real solution, an overnight in one of Akihabara’s capsule hotels. Here is a list of 10 hot spots to check out in electric city, PLUS A MAP, while on the ultimate sleepover:

1.

First stop, the brand spanking new football stadium sized Yodobashi Camera. Just exit the backside of Akihabara JR station or take the Hibiya line to Akihabara and there’s no missing it, in all it’s towering glory. If you’ve ignored your guidebook until now, here’s a tip, there’s no bargaining in Japan. Try as hard as you like, retailers will sooner raise the price of unpopular hardware rather than drop the price. Your best bet is to hunt for open box buys, last years models, and… must I say… grey market products. Yodobashi is a great place for residents who make use of their point card. Most electronics stores offer a card which allows them to accumulate points every time they shop. For example, you could score 10% of a products value back in points to be used as a discount on your next purchase. That’s great if you want to buy into their system, but in the end, there really is no deal and you’ll do better on the internet. For most tourists, filling out a form in Japanese and waiting for a point card is not high on the priority list. Forget about it.

2.

Hit the main drag and check out CLUB SEGA for a round of virtual taiko drumming. Play until your hands hurt or until the pros whup your ass.

3.

Check off Asobit City, the massive multi-level toy and video game shop before making your way up to and past Donki Hote. You’ll see them as you walk further from the station, retro toy shops. Loads of old school robots including generation 1 Transformers and antique Voltron. Spend all of your money.

4.

Stop by Akiba Terrace for one of their awesome kebab plates or hit one of Akihabara’s famous ramen shops. You can’t lose, they’re all great(if you dig noodle soup).

5.

Want a coffee or tea after lunch? Sneak into any one of Akihabara’s multitude of “maid” cafes. There are a few simple rules to follow, don’t touch the maids, no photos allowed, and no pets. If you want a cup of coffee with a cake labeled “master” in chocolate sauce, served by a Japanese girl dressed as a maid, then try it out. Not all of them dress like maids, you’ll find a few cats in the mix as well…

6.

Scour the back streets to find sushi shaped USB memory sticks and fried octopus ball machines. Look for the famous Akiba shops, their shop fronts have bright red “Akiba” signs in front. They sell loads of funny and odd gadgets. Around this area you’ll find the prized “multi-region” DVD players. If you find one, don’t forget to ask for a “password” to deactivate it’s region detecting function. Don’t expect quality, I’ve gone through two already, they work but last only about a year. No surprise considering they go for around $40USD each.

7.

If you’re hunting for English video games, walk over to Messe Sanno and GAME HOLLYWOOD for the latest. Games range from 3,500 yen to 6,000 yen+. Go to LAOX if you don’t find what you’re looking for here or you’re desperate. Be warned, they overcharge.

8.

Donki Hote is a sort of Walmart on acid, with walls plastered in drawings of a mad costumed penguin. Something for everyone, bad Engrish clothing, cheap audio and DVD players, lots of strange candy. The top floor(5th) houses one of the newer maid cafes, “@Hoooome.”

9.

Head back to your capsule hotel for a good nights sleep. You can check your email in the free internet cafe and have a bath in the free bath house.

10.

Wake up, head over to Mr. Donut on the main street(you won’t miss it if you’ve walked down once), and have a green tea donut and a cup of free refill coffee. Repeat 1-10 again, never leave Akihabara.

PDF map for download will be ready soon…

One of the perks of having awesome Brazillian friends is finding out there’s a great Spanish market right in the center of Tokyo. Right in front of JR Gotanda station somewhat hidden behind some big real estate signs is Mundo Latino, a Latin food, music and movie import store. Since arriving in Tokyo, I’d heard rumors of this fabled shop but until recently, had never actually found it. If you’re in need of some Buñuelos, Flan, or frozen Empanada de Carne, this is the place. Mundo Latino makes a nice weekend excursion if you want a little Latin flavor in your Tokyo life.

Once inside, you’ll find one main isle with cooking mixes, sauces, canned beans, dry beans, and plenty of hot sauces. Beside the main isle is a freezer filled with various chorizo, tamal, and empanada. On the other side are various cookies, bon bons, and cakes. I’m no specialist when it comes to Latin cuisine, but that doesn’t make me any less of a fan. It’s impossible to resist so many delicious looking ingredients and instant foods. If you have an oven(which is rare in Tokyo), make sure you try a box of Buñuelos(630 yen), addicting little baked cheese breads. Also try one of their imported hot sauces if your o-bento’s lacking kick!

If you’re a Salsa music fan, there’s another isle in the back of the store with a wide range of different artists. For a complete list of their music offerings, have a look at their online shop, www.musilatina.com. If you can read Spanish or Japanese, you don’t have to travel to Gotanda to buy products from Mundo Latino, just visit their online shop at www.musilatina.com/nambei. If you can’t read Spanish or Japanese, have a look at their online shop anyway for a glimpse at what you’ll find in their Gotanda shop. Don’t forget your Tropical Maria icecream(manga, guanabana, mora and lulo flavors!) on your way out!

Mundo Latino
Tel: 0088-22-0080
Hours: Everyday 10AM - 7PM
Music URL: www.musilatina.com
Food URL: www.musilatina.com/nambei