saya
+ SHIBUYA, TOKYO

When you travel from city to city, no matter where you are in the world, there will always be chain restaurants ranging from cheap to luxury. You will consistently find the same bookstores, cafes, and blinking lights. With so many similarities, what truly makes a city special? Not so much the degree or size of these chain establishments, but the hidden gems hiding in their shadows. Just a short stroll across the street from JR Shibuya station will take you to a spot untouched by the busy commerce of Shibuya crossing. Down this little alley, huddled together, are tiny bars and restaurants offering respite from the relentless push of modernization.

Along these few lantern lit streets are treasures long kept secret and hidden by their low key exteriors. Within these little establishments you’ll find Japanese standards like yakitori(grilled chicken skewers), oden(assorted boiled tofu, meat and vegetable dishes), and plenty of sake. Recently though, a few newcomers have arrived with a slightly more tasteful, modern take on the tiny bar. Not straying far from their traditional roots, these new bars and restaurants take hints from their modern surroundings and mix them into the old style traditions that have long held this small area together. Saya is one of them with it’s beautiful wooden interior, tiny staircase, and Asian style tables on the upper level. Low lit with jazz playing, this cozy little spot is quite romantic. Until 8:30PM you can stop by for a light dinner, after that it becomes a standing bar.

The menu is written entirely in Japanese, but a basic familiarity with hiragana and katakana can probably get you by. The owner was kind and friendly, although likely doesn’t speak English. As with most in the area, the priority is not the foreign crowd, but more to keep the locals smiling and coming back. Of course they were pleased to have foreign visitors, but don’t expect to get trashed here before a hard night at Gaspanic, even though it’s in the heart of Shibuya. Saya has a certain level of sophistication with their simple, tasteful food and drink menu. We each started our meal with a glass of yuzu-shu, a sweet orange flavored liquor over rocks. Our first entree, cold pork drizzled with a sweet sauce over a bed of greens was delightful. Our next dish was a bowl of steamed vegetables served with a brown, crumbly medley what seemed to be olives and herbs. It was a nice compliment for the pork. While ordering, I accidently pointed to the karaage(fried chicken), which arrived with our grilled fish(saba). Maybe it was a happy accident, because the karaage was crispy and had a very homestyle taste, delicious. The grilled fish was also excellent, with the skin grilled to perfection.

If you have a basic grasp of ordering food in Japanese, this is a nice spot to try. No doubt a great date spot if you pick the right time to go. No reservations necessary, but does get crowded later in the evening. If it’s full, try dress next door, but don’t forget to try saya next time. Vice versa if dress is full.

saya
Station: JR Shibuya
Tel: 03-5774-0738
To get to saya:
1. Exit Shibuya Station on the Hachiko side(the famous dog statue meeting place, check your generic guide book).
2. Walk right past the koban(police box) and cross the road.
3. Continue right, past the shop with the fruit characters, the ramen shop, and the Pepper Steak.
4. You’ll see an alley parallel to the train tracks on your left with lanterns hung overhead, walk down this street and it’s the third to last bar on your right.